Difference between revisions of "Aluminum Recycling"
m (moved Aluminum recycling to Aluminum Recycling) |
m |
||
Line 1: | Line 1: | ||
− | ==User tip#1== | + | ==User tip#1 (using old soda cans)== |
* Collect your cans, the more the better | * Collect your cans, the more the better | ||
Line 24: | Line 24: | ||
* Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles. | * Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles. | ||
+ | ==User tip #2 (Using old Aluminum wheels)== | ||
+ | Wheelium is often Al-357, which is excellent for casting stress parts and machines well. | ||
+ | |||
+ | '''HOWEVER''', some wheels contain Mg in their alloy and that presents problems of explosion, flammability and reaction with | ||
+ | a steel crucible. You must test the wheel alloy....'''BEFORE'''... you try to melt it in the furnace. | ||
+ | |||
+ | Take a little chunk of the alloy and torch it with a hand-held propane torch. Look for brilliant white flame / sparks. | ||
+ | If, present, there's Mg present, so find another source. | ||
+ | |||
[[Category:Casting]] | [[Category:Casting]] | ||
[[Category:Metalworking]] | [[Category:Metalworking]] |
Revision as of 16:56, 23 June 2010
User tip#1 (using old soda cans)
- Collect your cans, the more the better
- Cut the tops and bottoms off. For instance use shears or scissors. You want to seperate the cans into 3 sections. The tops, sides, and bottoms. The side when cut, looks like a thin single sheet.
- Drop them all into boiling water and boil for a few minutes. This helps by cleaning and removing any varnish and soda left in the can. It also helps by removing/washing any sand/dust that tends to collect in a can left laying around or "donated". Let air dry.
- The bottoms have the most metal and can be stacked one on top of each other. Like the fake potato chips that come in a can.
This reduces the surface area quite a bit. When it begins to melt, the bottom forms a pool that gravity pulls the stack into the melt pool. Your dross will be minimal. I have used no flux, borax, wood ash, charcoal ash, pure carbon from a oxy/acety torch, etc as covers.
- When I started I made my own flux from Borax brand melted in a crucible till it goes 'glassy' and then crushing it. It was easier to
buy some from a supplier later.
- Now take a washed side and roll it into a tight cylinder, then add another, etc until you have a nice thick solid roll of sides and tie off with aluminum wire to keep it together. Add that to the melt.
- I don't usually bother with the tops, other than submerging them one at a time until they melt. It's usually too time consuming.
- Nice clean skin with very little dross and I get about 75-80 percent conversion into ingots.
- I use old quart cast iron pots as crucibles. The one with lids can be drilled to make pouring easy, and they skim the pour very nicely.
- Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles.
User tip #2 (Using old Aluminum wheels)
Wheelium is often Al-357, which is excellent for casting stress parts and machines well.
HOWEVER, some wheels contain Mg in their alloy and that presents problems of explosion, flammability and reaction with a steel crucible. You must test the wheel alloy....BEFORE... you try to melt it in the furnace.
Take a little chunk of the alloy and torch it with a hand-held propane torch. Look for brilliant white flame / sparks. If, present, there's Mg present, so find another source.