Difference between revisions of "Aluminum Recycling"
From Self-sufficiency
(Created page with '==User tip#1== * Collect your cans, the more the better * Cut the tops and bottoms off. For instance use shears or scissors. You want to seperate the cans into 3 sections. The …') |
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This reduces the surface area quite a bit. When it begins to melt, the bottom forms a pool that gravity pulls the stack into the melt pool. Your dross will be minimal. I have used no flux, borax, wood ash, charcoal ash, pure carbon from a oxy/acety torch, etc as covers. | This reduces the surface area quite a bit. When it begins to melt, the bottom forms a pool that gravity pulls the stack into the melt pool. Your dross will be minimal. I have used no flux, borax, wood ash, charcoal ash, pure carbon from a oxy/acety torch, etc as covers. | ||
| − | When I started I made my own flux from Borax brand melted in a crucible till it goes 'glassy' and then crushing it. It was easier to | + | * When I started I made my own flux from Borax brand melted in a crucible till it goes 'glassy' and then crushing it. It was easier to |
buy some from a supplier later. | buy some from a supplier later. | ||
| Line 20: | Line 20: | ||
* Nice clean skin with very little dross and I get about 75-80 percent conversion into ingots. | * Nice clean skin with very little dross and I get about 75-80 percent conversion into ingots. | ||
| − | I use old quart cast iron pots as crucibles. The one with lids can be drilled to make pouring easy, and they skim the pour very nicely. | + | * I use old quart cast iron pots as crucibles. The one with lids can be drilled to make pouring easy, and they skim the pour very nicely. |
| + | |||
| + | * Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles. | ||
| + | |||
| + | [[Category:Casting]] | ||
| + | [[Category:Metalworking]] | ||
Revision as of 18:21, 22 June 2010
User tip#1
- Collect your cans, the more the better
- Cut the tops and bottoms off. For instance use shears or scissors. You want to seperate the cans into 3 sections. The tops, sides, and bottoms. The side when cut, looks like a thin single sheet.
- Drop them all into boiling water and boil for a few minutes. This helps by cleaning and removing any varnish and soda left in the can. It also helps by removing/washing any sand/dust that tends to collect in a can left laying around or "donated". Let air dry.
- The bottoms have the most metal and can be stacked one on top of each other. Like the fake potato chips that come in a can.
This reduces the surface area quite a bit. When it begins to melt, the bottom forms a pool that gravity pulls the stack into the melt pool. Your dross will be minimal. I have used no flux, borax, wood ash, charcoal ash, pure carbon from a oxy/acety torch, etc as covers.
- When I started I made my own flux from Borax brand melted in a crucible till it goes 'glassy' and then crushing it. It was easier to
buy some from a supplier later.
- Now take a washed side and roll it into a tight cylinder, then add another, etc until you have a nice thick solid roll of sides and tie off with aluminum wire to keep it together. Add that to the melt.
- I don't usually bother with the tops, other than submerging them one at a time until they melt. It's usually too time consuming.
- Nice clean skin with very little dross and I get about 75-80 percent conversion into ingots.
- I use old quart cast iron pots as crucibles. The one with lids can be drilled to make pouring easy, and they skim the pour very nicely.
- Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles.
