Difference between revisions of "Aluminum Recycling"

From Self-sufficiency
Jump to: navigation, search
m
Line 1: Line 1:
==User tip#1==
+
==User tip#1 (using old soda cans)==
  
 
* Collect your cans, the more the better
 
* Collect your cans, the more the better
Line 24: Line 24:
 
* Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles.  
 
* Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles.  
  
 +
==User tip #2 (Using old Aluminum wheels)==
 +
Wheelium is often Al-357, which is excellent for casting stress parts and machines well.
 +
 +
'''HOWEVER''', some wheels contain Mg in their alloy and that presents problems of explosion, flammability and reaction with
 +
a steel crucible. You must test the wheel alloy....'''BEFORE'''... you try to melt it in the furnace.
 +
 +
Take a little chunk of the alloy and torch it with a hand-held propane torch. Look for brilliant white flame / sparks.
 +
If, present, there's Mg present, so find another source.
 +
 
[[Category:Casting]]
 
[[Category:Casting]]
 
[[Category:Metalworking]]
 
[[Category:Metalworking]]

Revision as of 17:56, 23 June 2010

User tip#1 (using old soda cans)

  • Collect your cans, the more the better
  • Cut the tops and bottoms off. For instance use shears or scissors. You want to seperate the cans into 3 sections. The tops, sides, and bottoms. The side when cut, looks like a thin single sheet.
  • Drop them all into boiling water and boil for a few minutes. This helps by cleaning and removing any varnish and soda left in the can. It also helps by removing/washing any sand/dust that tends to collect in a can left laying around or "donated". Let air dry.
  • The bottoms have the most metal and can be stacked one on top of each other. Like the fake potato chips that come in a can.

This reduces the surface area quite a bit. When it begins to melt, the bottom forms a pool that gravity pulls the stack into the melt pool. Your dross will be minimal. I have used no flux, borax, wood ash, charcoal ash, pure carbon from a oxy/acety torch, etc as covers.

  • When I started I made my own flux from Borax brand melted in a crucible till it goes 'glassy' and then crushing it. It was easier to

buy some from a supplier later.

  • Now take a washed side and roll it into a tight cylinder, then add another, etc until you have a nice thick solid roll of sides and tie off with aluminum wire to keep it together. Add that to the melt.
  • I don't usually bother with the tops, other than submerging them one at a time until they melt. It's usually too time consuming.
  • Nice clean skin with very little dross and I get about 75-80 percent conversion into ingots.
  • I use old quart cast iron pots as crucibles. The one with lids can be drilled to make pouring easy, and they skim the pour very nicely.
  • Just before pouring I stick in a steel rod and stir it a bit. This helps to get rid of any bubbles.

User tip #2 (Using old Aluminum wheels)

Wheelium is often Al-357, which is excellent for casting stress parts and machines well.

HOWEVER, some wheels contain Mg in their alloy and that presents problems of explosion, flammability and reaction with a steel crucible. You must test the wheel alloy....BEFORE... you try to melt it in the furnace.

Take a little chunk of the alloy and torch it with a hand-held propane torch. Look for brilliant white flame / sparks. If, present, there's Mg present, so find another source.