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<p><b>New page</b></p><div>{{About|the textile finishing process|the paper process|Calender}}<br />
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'''Calendering''' is a [[finishing (textiles)|finishing]] process used on [[cloth]] where fabric is folded in half and passed under rollers at high temperatures and pressures. Calendering is used on fabrics such as [[moire (fabric)|moire]] to produce its watered effect and also on [[cambric]] and some types of [[sateen]]s.<br />
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In preparation for calendering, the fabric is folded lengthwise with the front side, or face, inside, and stitched together along the edges.<ref name="dict">{{cite book |title=Dictionary of Textiles |last= Harmuth|first= Louis|year= 1915|publisher= Fairchild publishing company|page= 106|url= http://books.google.com/books?id=LVEhAAAAMAAJ&dq|accessdate=July 8, 2009}}</ref><ref name="record"/> The fabric can be folded together at full width, however this is not done as often as it is more difficult.<ref name="record"/> The fabric is then run through rollers that polish the surface and make the fabric smoother and more lustrous.<ref name="term">{{cite book |title= Textiles Technology|last= Cresswell|first= Lesley|coauthors= Barbara Lawler, Helen Wilson, Susanna Watkins|year= 2002|publisher= Heinemann|isbn= 043541786X|page= 36|url= http://books.google.com/books?id=mjbp-RcxI1gC&dq|accessdate=July 8, 2009}}</ref> High temperatures and pressure are used as well.<ref name="record">{{cite book |title= Textile World Record|year= 1907|publisher= Lord & Nagle Co.|page= 118|url= http://books.google.com/books?id=ZfbNAAAAMAAJ&dq|accessdate=July 8, 2009}}</ref><ref name="fabric">{{cite book |title= Fabric Magic|last= Paine|first= Melanie|year= 1999|publisher= Frances Lincoln ltd|isbn=0711209952 |page= 24 |url= http://books.google.com/books?id=AkWAMNeLI6MC&dq|accessdate= July 8, 2009}}</ref> Fabrics that go through the calendering process feel thin, glossy and papery.<ref name="record"/><br />
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The calendering finish is easily destroyed, and does not last well. Washing in water destroys it, as does wear with time.<ref name="textiles"/><br />
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==Variations==<br />
Several different finishes can be achieved through the calendering process by varying different parts. The main different types of finishes are ''beetling'', ''watered'', ''embossing'' and ''Scheiner''.<ref name="textiles"/><br />
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===Beetled===<br />
Beetling is a finish given to [[cotton]] and [[linen]] cloth, and makes it look like [[satin]]. In the beetling process the fabric goes over wooden rollers and is beaten with wooden hammers.<ref name="textiles">{{cite book |title= Textiles|last= Nystrom|first= Paul Henry|year= 1916|publisher= D. Appleton|pages= 274–275|url= http://books.google.com/books?id=z5YUAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA275&dq|accessdate=July 8, 2009}}</ref><br />
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===Watered===<br />
The watered finish, also known as [[moire (fabric)|moire]], is produced by using ribbed rollers. These rollers compress the cloth and the ribs produce the characteristic watermark effect by moving aside threads as well as compressing them.<ref name="record"/><ref name="term"/> This leaves some of the threads round while others get compressed and become flat.<ref name="textiles"/><br />
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===Embossed===<br />
In the [[Embossing (paper)|embossing]] process the rollers have engraved patterns on them, and the patterns become stamped onto the fabric.<ref name="textiles"/> The end result is a raised pattern.<ref>{{cite book |title= Home Economics in Action|coauthors= Caribbean Association Staff, Theadora Alexander, Caribbean Association of Home Economists|year= 2002|publisher= Heinemann|isbn= 0435980483|page= 129|url= http://books.google.com/books?id=W_h3CZlJnlcC&pg=RA1-PA129&dq|accessdate= July 8, 2009}}</ref> This works best with soft fabrics.<ref name="textiles"/><br />
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===Scheiner===<br />
Similar to the watered process, in the Scheiner process the rollers are ribbed, only in the Scheiner process the ribs are very fine, with as many as six hundred ribs per inch under extremely high pressure. The threads are pressed flat with little lines in them, which causes the fabric to reflect the light better than a flat surface would. Cloth finished with the Scheiner method has a very high luster, which is made more lasting by heating the rollers.<ref name="textiles"/><br />
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==See also==<br />
*[[Mercerised cotton|Mercerize]]<br />
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==References==<br />
{{Reflist}}<br />
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{{fabric}}<br />
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[[Category:Textiles]]<br />
[[Category:2Fix]]</div>SmackBot